Radical Sabbatical

I took a break from my endless search for house supplies, and traded what would be my third subway haul to IKEA in a week, for a cab ride to attend the American Women's Club of Shanghai annual Christmas luncheon. (Incidentally, IKEA is pronounced A-Key-Ah in Chinese. It's five times more crowded and crazier than it's equivalent in the U.S. and a barrell of laughs at checkout, hearing all those odd Swedish names being pronounced with a Shanghainese accent and watching hungry shoppers devour their signature meatballs with chopsticks).

I arrived at the ultra chic "M on the Bund", which is one of Shanghai's swankiest restaurants with a knockout river view, and was immediately asked for my passport to gain entry. Apparently, the Chinese government has strict regulations about membership in expatriate clubs, and last year's luncheon highlight was a police raid that left several ladies without proper documentation out in the cold. Can you imagine? Luckily, I had been forewarned by my friend, Anna, who was able to get me a coveted invite to this exclusive party. I was excited and initially at ease. The gathering reminded me of Barnard reunion event. Well dressed women sporting designer bags and name tags, chatting away about what books they were reading, latest restaurant finds and how behind they were on Christmas shopping. For entertainment, there was a Japanese Fashion show going in the background (not sure why, since we were in China afterall). As I sipped my third Mimosa and settled into my assigned banquet seat, my observations shifted a bit. Granted, when you get 150 women together, clicks are inevitable. But, this little gathering gave much insight into the social structure of American's in Shanghai.

The premier seating area next to the panoramic window views was reserved for the "aristocrats". These women were some of the most powerful in Shanghai. Most had been in Shanghai for over five years, and their resumes included significant time living abroad in some other Asian financial center such as Tokyo or Singapore. They all held officer titles in the club, and from what I could tell, have made an impressive career as an expatriate wife. Afterall, they were sitting with Beatrice Camp, who had just arrived in September 2008 for a three-year posting as U.S. Consul General Shanghai. It was quietly pointed out to me that most of their husbands were high ranking officers for the Asia division of a Fortune 500 and they lived in ultra exclusive American compounds on the Pudong side of town. Think Texas big, with members only golf courses and beaches.

There are 25,000 Americans in Shanghai, second in expatriate population ranking, (Japan ranks No. 1)and it is no small feat that these women have claimed a territory for themselves in this buzzing metropolis. They may not have jobs in the traditional, "I sit in a cubicle and stare at my computer all day" sort of way, but their opinion and committee work on schools, charities, real estate, fashion, lifestyle and entertainment in Shanghai is very, very influential. I sat back and chuckled as the young Mom's click quibbled over the best way to get their kids into private school and which American International School had the best ranking in Shanghai. I admired their perseverance, but was a bit thankful that I wasn't at that point in my life yet.

My table was way in the back, about as far away from the aristocrats as you could get. I was sitting with the twenty and thirty somethings most of whom were fairly new to Shanghai. They were a friendly bunch and I was eager to introduce myself, although I sheepishly ended my spiel on an apologetic tone, commenting that for the first time in over 15 years I was unemployed and frankly a little lost with what exactly I was going to do in Shanghai. Charlotte, who has the southern charm of her namesake, quickly stood up and grabbed my hand. "Welcome to your Radical Sabbatical! We all have been here for several months and have left our careers back home. Trust me, you'll be busier than ever in Shanghai!"

"On a Radical Sabbatical" seemed to be the motto of this click. I was in good company of some very smart women who had taken a break from being a nurse, physician, banker, publisher, teacher, scientist etc., to come to Shanghai with their husbands for a year or two. No path intended but to self discover and reinvent. I left the party with a pocketful of contact names and plans for the rest of the week. We met up for pole dancing (yes, like the strippers do, it's the latest craze in Shanghai) and a dance club opening later that week. I had a BLAST! I felt like I had finally arrived in Shanghai!